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Modifications for the Alinco DJ-580
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| Alinco DJ580E to TNC info |
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Pin outs for Alinco DJ580E and TNC connections
MIC 2.5mm PLUG EAR 3.5mm PLUG
l l l l
l l l l
l--l l--l l-----l l-----l
l l l l
Microphone l l l l Earphone or
ground (screen) l l l l speaker ground
l----l l------l (Brown wire)
l----l l------l
* +5 volts l l l l UHF audio out
output l l l l (Red wire)
l----l l------l
l----l l------l
l l l l
Microphone > < > < VHF audio out
signal & Tx l l l l (Green wire)
switching / /
(white wire) / /
has +5v for switching
NOTE:
Wire colours refer to the Alinco lead normally supplied with the
EMS-8 speaker microphone.
*
This segment of the MIC plug may not be connected in the lead you
have. It is used to supply auxilliary power for such items as VOX
mic circuits. In the normal electret microphone the power is
obtained from the mic signal line.
The DJ580 has a third phone socket where VHF and UHF can be
monitored seperately. The red wire from the centre of the phone
plug is for UHF only audio when inserted in this socket. Otherwise
use the green wire (tip) for both UHF and VHF audio out.
Now for the TNC connections:
There is no seperate PTT line on this type of handheld (in common
with many HH's). Instead transmit is achieved by grounding the Mic
signal line through a 33k resistor.
Because the mic signal line carries +5 volts it is also necessary
to add a small capacitor in this line to prevent this DC voltage
from reaching our TNC.(Some TNC's have a capacitor as standard in
the audio output line, in which case no problem.)
Audio in is very simple. Connect the green wire (tip) of the 3.5mm
jack plug to the TNC audio in. Mic screen and brown phone ground
wire are twisted together and connected to TNC ground.
Connections are:
TNC DJ580 Wire (if using Alinco cable)
Audio in 3.5mm plug tip Green
Audio out 2.5mm plug tip White (needs 1n cap. in series)
PTT 2.5mm plug tip White (via 1/8watt 33k resistor)
Ground 2.5mm base section Screen
Ground 3.5mm base section Brown / Twist together
DJ580 mic (white) -----------------l l------------- TNC audio out
l 1n capacitor
>
<
> 33k resistor
<
l
l
TNC ptt line (0 volts to transmit)
NOTE:
If you have any Tx switching problems you can try adding two 1n
caps between white wire and ground and TNC audio out and ground.
I use the 580 myself so I know it works.
73's from Jim G0DPX
@ GB7WRG #19 GBR. EU.
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| ALINCO DJ-580EB sensitivity
measurements |
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- All sensitivity measurements performed
with Radiocommunication Tester CMT from Rohde & Schwarz.
- DJ-580 EB externally supplied with
13.8 Volt
- Modifications present during this
test:
- Keyboard modification (130 - 174 MHz
& 400 - 470 MHz reception)
- Hardware modification (108 - 143 MHz
(AM !) & 810 - 990 MHz reception)
144-146 MHz band:
Generator of CMT set to 2.8 KHz FM-deviation with 1 KHz AF.
Sensitivity is measured for 12 dB SINAD with CCITT filter in CMT
switched ON.
144.000 MHz 0.12 µV max. 36 dB SINAD at 5.60 µV
144.500 MHz 0.11 µV
145.000 MHz 0.13 µV
145.500 MHz 0.12 µV
145.995 MHz 0.12 µV max. 36 dB SINAD at 5.60 µV
430-440 MHz band:
Generator of CMT set to 2.8 KHz FM-deviation with 1 KHz AF.
Sensitivity is measured for 12 dB SINAD with CCITT filter in CMT
switched ON.
430.000 MHz 0.15 µV
432.000 MHz 0.18 µV
434.000 MHz 0.18 µV max. 36 dB SINAD at 3.0 µV RF input
436.000 MHz 0.18 µV
438.000 MHz 0.16 µV
439.995 MHz 0.17 µV
Aircraft band: 108 - 142.990 MHz AM
(after hardware modification)
Generator of CMT set to 80% AM-depth with 1 KHz AF. Sensitivity is
measured for 12 dB SINAD with CCITT filter in CMT switched ON.
108.000 MHz 0.80 µV max. 16 dB SINAD (!!) (ca. 18% dist. !!)
109.000 MHz 0.75 µV
110.000 MHz 0.68 µV
115.000 MHz 0.77 µV
120.000 MHz 0.60 µV max. 17 dB (!!) SINAD at 1,15 mV RF input
125.000 MHz 0.55 µV
130.000 MHz 0.45 µV max. 16.8 dB(!!) SINAD at 0.66 mV RF input
135.000 MHz 0.43 µV
140.000 MHz 0.37 µV max. 17 dB (!!) SINAD at 0.45 mV RF input
141.000 MHz 0.36 µV
142.000 MHz 0.35 µV
142.990 MHz 0.38 µV
UHF extended band: 810 - 999 MHz FM
(after hardware modification)
Generator of CMT set to 2.8 KHz FM-deviation with 1 KHz AF.
Sensitivity is measured for 12 dB SINAD with CCITT filter in CMT
switched ON.
810 - 825 MHz no reception (probably due to not locking of the PLL)
826.000 MHz 0.60 µV max. 34 dB SINAD at 9 µV RF input
827.000 MHz 0.60 µV
830.000 MHz 0.40 µV
840.000 MHz 0.25 µV
850.000 MHz 0.25 µV max. 34 dB SINAD at 8.5 µV RF input
860.000 MHz 0.28 µV
870.000 MHz 0.50 µV
880.000 MHz 0.64 µV
890.000 MHz 0.78 µV
900.000 MHz 0.82 µV
910.000 MHz 1.00 µV
920.000 MHz 1.14 µV
930.000 MHz 1.08 µV
940.000 MHz 1.33 µV
950.000 MHz 2.53 µV
953.000 MHz 3.60 µV
954 - 999 MHz no reception (probably due to not locking of the PLL)
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| ALINCO DJ-580EB output power
measurements |
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All power measurements performed with Radio communication Tester
CMT from Rohde & Schwarz.
144 - 146 MHz band:
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
¦ Freq. ¦ L ¦ M ¦ H ¦ Remark ¦
+------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------------------+
¦ ¦ ¦ ¦
144.000 MHz ¦ 0.327 W ¦ 1.28 W ¦ 5.40 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.343 W ¦ 1.28 W ¦ 3.18 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
144.500 MHz ¦ 0.322 W ¦ 1.26 W ¦ 5.35 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.339 W ¦ 1.26 W ¦ 3.16 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
145.000 MHz ¦ 0.318 W ¦ 1.25 W ¦ 5.27 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.333 W ¦ 1.25 W ¦ 3.16 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
145.500 MHz ¦ 0.313 W ¦ 1.23 W ¦ 5.20 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.330 W ¦ 1.23 W ¦ 3.19 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
145.995 MHz ¦ 0.309 W ¦ 1.21 W ¦ 5.16 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.324 W ¦ 1.21 W ¦ 3.17 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
430 - 440 MHz band:
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
¦ Freq. ¦ L ¦ M ¦ H ¦ Remark ¦
+------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------------------+
¦ ¦ ¦ ¦
430.000 MHz ¦ 0.294 W ¦ 1.48 W ¦ 4.91 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.313 W ¦ 1.44 W ¦ 2.44 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
432.000 MHz ¦ 0.294 W ¦ 1.49 W ¦ 4.91 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.313 W ¦ 1.45 W ¦ 2.43 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
434.000 MHz ¦ 0.290 W ¦ 1.49 W ¦ 4.90 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.313 W ¦ 1.46 W ¦ 2.41 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
436.000 MHz ¦ 0.290 W ¦ 1.48 W ¦ 4.88 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.320 W ¦ 1.45 W ¦ 2.40 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
438.000 MHz ¦ 0.287 W ¦ 1.47 W ¦ 4.93 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.307 W ¦ 1.45 W ¦ 2.39 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
439.995 MHz ¦ 0.284 W ¦ 1.45 W ¦ 4.95 W ¦ (13.8 V. ext.)
¦ 0.302 W ¦ 1.43 W ¦ 2.39 W ¦ (EBP-20, fully charged)
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| DJ-580EB S-meter indication |
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For these measurements the Radio communication Tester CMT from
Rohde & Schwarz was used to generate the HF signal.
Note:
Especially at lower levels the segments of the DJ-580 were
flashing on and off. The signal levels below were measured at the
point were the segments remained ON for about 50% of the time.
144 - 146 MHz band:
SEGMENT ¦ Level
----------+------------
1 ¦ 0.22 µV
3 ¦ 0.34 µV
5 ¦ 0.52 µV
7 ¦ 1.00 µV
9 ¦ 1.95 µV
FULL ¦ 3.24 µV
430 - 440 MHz band:
SEGMENT ¦ Level
----------+------------
1 ¦ 0.19 µV
3 ¦ 0.33 µV
5 ¦ 0.44 µV
7 ¦ 0.69 µV
9 ¦ 1.20 µV
FULL ¦ (not seen)
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| DJ-580 secret codes/modes |
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Some time ago, fellow hams have send out not mentioned codes which
can be activate when the keyboard is lock (with the key-sequence
FUNC * = FL).
One of them was #123 - I think I found out what this code do. If
you type in this code when the keyboard is locked the display
shows up one digit and after each new try it will increment the
digit starting from 0 to H. - This code change the DTMF-Setup!!! -
It seems there are several DMTF-mode stored in the DJ-580 (from 0
to H). The difference between these modes are different signal
length and probably different signal/tone frequencies. After
changing to a other digit than 0, you are only able to decode DTMF
from other stations with the same setup.
If you have changed your DTMF - don't worry. Type in #123 several
times until the digit 0 appears on the display again and than
unlock your keyboard. Now your DJ-580 should be in the default
mode again.
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| DJ-580T coverage for newer rig |
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Here is another mod for the Alinco DJ-580T...
Depending on the age of the rig this is a mod to open the rec and
transmitter.
If you have a newer rig, take the battery off and the 4 screws
that hold on the battery and find the RED wire, cit it and tape
the ends to open the receiver to be able to transmit on all bands
you rec with the reception on 800 and 900 cut the Blue wire, I
have don't this and have had no problem sat all...
The RED and BLUE wire are looped so you cant miss them...
Enjoy the new coverage...
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| DJ-580 HT review/info (long) |
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I mailed information on the new Alinco dual band hand-held, the
DJ-580T to a couple folks that had enquired about them. These
people had some requests for the information, so decided that I'd
just post it. This is not intended to be a complete review of the
radio, just information I had e-mailed.
Note: I posted a couple weeks ago about a stolen DJ-160, the 2
meter Alinco. I had a few e-mail responses to that post. It was
stolen by a brother of one of the Girl Scouts in my Daughter's
troop. We now have it back -- returned after two weeks, one day
before I was going to mail a claim to the ARRL insurance.
The DJ-580 dual band radio is one of the "small" hand , not the
smallest thing out but a very nice size. I think it has a nice
solid feel to it. Display shows both VHF & UHF frequencies, as
well as indication for which band is receiving a signal. Lighted
keyboard. Built in CTCSS encode and decode, as well as tone
paging.
I purchased my first DJ-580 from Amateur Radio Supply in Seattle (ARS)
at the ham fair in Washington. Price was $399. After playing with
it for a weekend I decided that it was a great radio and I
purchased another one for my wife. The second one was from Ham
Radio Outlet (HRO) in Tigard, Oregon. Price there was also $399.
At a ham fair in Salem a couple weeks ago Electro-Comm (a small
Alinco only dealer in Washington) sold out of their 580s and had
not yet received new ones. At the ham fair last week ARS had just
received them -- I don't know how many they got, but every time I
passed their booth I saw someone buying one. HRO has had two
shipments of 10 each, and after I got mine they had one left.
These things seem to be popular.
They use a battery specific to Alinco. The battery is *MUCH*
improved over the DJ-160 (2 meter only) radio. On the DJ-160 the
battery can be easily removed when the radio is stressed in a
purse or backpack. This doesn't break it, but is a nuisance. On
the DJ-580 the connection seems quite secure. It comes with a drop
in charger -- standard slow charge. I think there is a fast
charger for it. Standard battery is 7.2 volt 700 ma nicad.
I measured the current draw, and with a single band turned on it
draws about 60 ma, and with both bands on 100 ma (squelch not
broken of course). With the battery saver feature you should get
about 60 percent improvement on power consumption. In battery save
you listen for 130 ms and then drop to standby power for 390 ms.
Unfortunately it is not easy for me to measure the power used in
this standby setting but I'd guess that it averages out to perhaps
a 60 percent savings.
Only thing I worry about a bit with Alinco is that they seem to
come out with a neat new model each year. The 580 is a clear
winner over the 560 dual band. Don't know what they will have next
year, but perhaps the 580 is selling well enough that they will
stick with it a while. Anyway, hope they decide that this is a
good battery design and keep it.
We did put this on a signal generator and it was a bit more
sensitive than the Yaesu FT470 (think that is their small dual
bander) we also had with us. I hadn't made the out of band mods
yet so couldn't check sensitivity out of band. I do know that many
of the radios will display out of band but are not sensitive
enough to actually pick up anything. The 580 does seem to receive
out of band quite well. As I say though, I don't have any info on
intermod rejection.
I was asked about modification of the DJ-580 for out of band
operation. They couldn't have made it much easier:
- Remove battery pack.
Use a small philips screwdriver (ie. jeweler size) to remove the
4 screws that hold the metal battery slide on the radio. These
are at the outer corners of the metal clip.
- Gently lift off the metal clip. Note
that the two power wires are on this so don't pull it too far
off. Also note that there is a small metal tab on this clip that
is inserted in the battery release slide. You will want to
insert it back in the same hole when you replace the metal clip.
- You will see a small RED wire loop as
well as a small BLUE wire loop. You can gently pull these up
with some needle nose pliers. Cut the loops and then cover the
ends so they don't contact anything. My method was to cut them
not quite at the top, so one wire was a bit longer than the
other. I then slipped a small piece of heat shrink tubing over
the wires so the ends could not contact each other again. This
is probably adequate. I took a CLEAN soldering iron and used
that to shrink the tubing a bit just so it wouldn't move.
- Push the wire loops back into the
radio. The metal battery clip will push up against the circuit
board running down the center of the radio so you don't want the
wire loops crossing over the circuit board.
- Replace the metal plate -- remember to
stick the projection into the small hole on the battery release
slide.
- Replace the battery pack and reset the
radio. You reset the radio by holding the function key down and
turning on the power. Note that this clears all memories, so
make the mod early -- this thing has 40 memory channels - a lot
to reprogram.
I cut both jumpers. Documentation I have,
as well as verbal instructions was that the RED jumper opens up
the out of band receive -- aircraft and cellular, while the BLUE
wire opens up the out of band transmit. You certainly can't
transmit in the aircraft or 800 band, I don't know just what
transmit limits are, don't have any reason to stray outside of the
ham band.
Also, the default memory set up is 20 channels for VHF and 20 for
UHF.
You can allocate these differently if you wish, for example 30 VHF
and 10 UHF. The manual describes this procedure. The manual that
comes with it isn't too bad -- at least not for the "simple"
stuff. I don't know if it does a good job of describing things
like cross band repeat. If you get one of these radios contact jay
Appell at jay@zen.cac.stratus.com and tell him you have a 580 and
would like to have him e-mail you a manual. He has one in progress
now. I have the first draft and it is pretty good. Think the
second draft will be out in a month or so.
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OK, since I just went through this broken antenna thing recently,
let me jot down a few of the highlights...
First thing is to remove the wrist strap and all the knobs from
the top of the radio. The knobs just pull straight off.
Around the knob shafts is a nut of sorts, more like a sleve with
threads. They sit down in the gap between the shaft and the radio
shell, and have two notches, 180 degrees apart. They probably want
you to use some sort of special tool to unscrew them, but I just
used a really small screw driver (basically anything small and
pointy will do). This is probably the part you missed. Use the
screw driver to push the notches around the shaft to unscrew the
nut.
Un-do the 4 screws that hold the base plate on. Be careful with
the wires and the spring that pushes on the battery release. Also
un-do the 3 screws that hold the front and back halves of the
radio together. The radio can now come apart, although it won't
want to.
The ribbon cable joining the two halves of the radio has enough
stretch to just barely allow the radio to be taken apart. The
thing you're trying to do is get the knob shafts out of their
holes. Once that is done you can lay the radio open on the table.
Of course, you're looking at two PC boards, one in each half. The
BNC connector isn't on either of them :-(. It's buried below the
one on the back side of the radio. There are 4 screws holding that
one down, one in roughly each corner. Remove them, and carefully
lift that board. Under it is yet another PC board, and under that
one is the BNC connector. Alinco must have stock in the folks
producing "Dr. Who".
At the top of the radio is a rubber gasket thingy which goes
around the plugs for the mic/earphone/etc. I don't remember
exactly how this went, but it will end up coming out.
With the second board lifted out of the way, you'll see some
copper foil covering where the BNC connector is. There is a screw
on the top right, and a solder blob at the bottom. Remove the
screw and peel the foil back. I ended up breaking the solder blob
in the process, but it was easy to put back. The under side of the
foil has an adhesive on it.
There is a wire connecting the BNC's threads which broke off at
the PC board *and* the center connection had cracked from the
solder post. Use a really small soldering iron and touch up both
connections. Be real careful not to burn anything, drop solder on
anything, or bend the little coils near the center connector's
post. I didn't use any extra solder, just re-flowing what already
was there.
With the repair complete, reverse the process to put things back
together. Don't forget to re-blob the foil, and get all the rubber
gizmos (PTT/Function switch, and the seal around the speaker/mic
connectors back in place, and not pinched under something else.
As a final step, get some good epoxy and run a bead around the BNC
connector to keep it from moving in the future. Come to think of
it, you might want to put some on the inside while the radio's
open, but I put it on the outside.
Seemed safer.
I've probably forgotten some minor, but important detail in all
this, but this is from memory, so use your best judgment. Don't
force anything; they put it together without a hammer, so you
shouldn't need one to take it apart. You will need a real fine
Phillips screwdriver, fine tip soldering iron, and NO
INTERRUPTIONS to pull this off.
Good luck,
Greg KD6KGW
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User
comment |
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| Subject: Alinco
dj-580 mod |
To
Greg KD6KGW
Thank much for the fix on the antenna jack. I had left it on
the shelf a couple years ago because of a bad BNC jack. Two or
three years ago Alinco must have realized they had a problem
as they were selling replacement jacks and also offered to fix
it for way to much money. I finally decided to try and fix it.
I got as far as taking out all the screws and couldn't get
further. Who could tell that all the control knobs and
subsequent spanner screws had to be removed as well. It looks
as though it would pop apart without that. Anyway, after
removing the spanner nuts on the controls the rest was not to
bad. Just four more screws on the center board got me to the
antenna jack. I very carefully lifted the copper foil over the
BNC right at the upper left where the screw comes out with a
jewelers screwdriver and peeled it back. I then reflowed both
the connectors to the BNC and re-assembled the unit. The one
rubber gasket doesn't pose that much of a problem if you don't
remove it in the first place. It usually stays with the center
board if not desturbed. Despite all your precautions I have to
say it wasn't as hard as I thought. My problem was not knowing
you have to remove the knobs and their associated spanner
nuts.
Bottom line is that the operation went well and the patient
has had a full recovery. I really wonder how one would put in
a new BNC as it looks both press and solder fit. However
Alinco at one time did offer this jack and also offered to do
the fix as I said previously at big money. Alinco now seems to
refer you to some contracted company and the fix is extremely
expensive. Probably close to what you could buy one used for.
Anyway, thank for giving me the courage to go forward and
finish the job. It's really nice to have the rig back as it
was one of my favorites. Despite the fact that I used some
Plumbers Weld epoxy on the inside I will never pick that radio
by it antenna again.
Let me know if you get this email as you didn't really leave a
direct email address.
Pat Szulczewski WE9P
PSzulczewski@aol.com |
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| DJ580 mod info (Blue wire) |
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In the following, i will discuss the modification of an alinco
DJ-580e, which will maybe also work for us model.
There is the well known methode, of cutting the blue wire.
Some om's are reseting their handy, and befor reassembling, they
connect the blue ( now two ) wire together. so, if you reset the
DJ-580 again, you have an transceiver without modifications.
There is also an other possibility:
Cut the blue wire. make sure, that the ends are isolated and make
no connection to any other equipment. reassemble the alinco. Now
you must full reset the 580. this is made by pressing the function
key during power on. you have an opened handy for receiving and
transmitting.
** Connect the dummy load for tests **
You can program the memories and so on.
I think till now, it's well known.
Now, for closing the handy again, do the following. The 580 is
powered off. press the function key - and leave it pressed. then
power on and leave the function key already pressed. Now power off
again. (now you can release the function key - hi) during the
power on phase, you have seen all the symbols on the display. and
the fine think is: with this half reset you do not lose the
contents of the memories, but the handy is set to the normal ham
band limits.
If you want open for receiving, you can do it, by software mod.
Remember, the blue wire is already cutted.
Beware, it's not allowed to receive or transmit out of the ham
bands. use the dummy load for tests. |
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| Manual for Alinco DJ-580 model |
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#1:
First, disable the primary functions of the Keypad by Holding down
the "FUNC" and hitting the " * ". Next, Hit in sequence, " # 1 2 0
".
If " open " is displayed on screen, You may use the battery for an
extended period on receive ( for ALKALINE batteries ) .
If " close " is displayed on screen, you may only use the battery
down to the normal preset level ( for NI-CAD batteries ) . You may
switch between the settings, but turn the radio off briefly to
bring the radio into the new setting. Have fun.
#2:
First, disable the primary functions of the Keypad by Holding down
the " FUNC " key on the side of the radio. Now hit the " * " key.
Next, hit in sequence " # 1 2 3 ". This mod. adjusts the
Auto-Dialer Setting in the Radio. A number or letter will appear
on screen.
Play with the settings only on a simplex freq. with low power.
Repeaters can not yet handle the slow speeds much less the fast
speeds , so this mod. will be important only in the near future.
However, have fun with this one too.
Although these mods. are for the Alinco-580T/E. It is believed
that other Alinco products have similar mods. available via Keypad
Entry. Mobiles and HTs alike.
Send comments to N0VKG on the TOYBBS:KD9SG BBS or IPALN:KB9BPF
Mailbox here in the St. Louis Area.
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Ich habe mir vor ca. einem halben Jahr mein DJ-580 auf 9k6
umgebaut.
Den RX hab ich folgendermasen abgenommen (Ich hoffe Du verstehst
was ich meine, sonst einfach Nachfragen (TNC läuft meistens auf
AAB (vor allem Abends)) Also..vom IC 101 geht an pin 11 ein 1k Ohm
Widerstand auf ein kleines Netzwerk. An diesem habe ich mit 6,8k
Ohm den RX abgegriffen . (mittelpunkt R 113, C 117,R 122 und R
123).
Das mit den 6,8k Ohm geht recht gut, habe damals auch ein bissl
mehr (bis 10k) ausprobiert aber dann war das Signal für das TNC zu
klein.
TX hab ich direkt auf die VCO Unit aufgeschaltet und zwar direkt
auf den MOU-Eingang der VCO-U einheit (bei R 528,C 561). Das hat
zwar den Nachteil, daß auf 2m kein TX möglich ist, aber das
braucht man ja eh nicht..hi
Ich hatte Anfangs Angst, daß mir das Signal ohne auftrennung der
bestehenden TX zu weit verändert wird, aber das hat sich nicht
bestätigt.
Lageplan hab ich leider keinen und im Kopf hab ich das von damals
auch nicht mehr so genau, aber da mußt man halt die Leiterbahnen
verfolgen. (Lupe ist da sehr hilfreich..hi)
So, was mir noch als gute Idee erschien und ich dann auch so
realisiert habe war, daß ich zur Signalrausführung die V/U Buchse
verwende (V und U getrennt auf linken und rechten Kanal ,direkt
neben der Ant-Buchse).
Da muß man dann zwar etwas überbrücken und einen Draht abzwicken
aber ich habe für diese Buchse sowieso keine Verwendung.
Welche zwei Drähte das waren weiß ich zwar leider nicht mehr, aber
das kann man ja aus dem Schaltplan raussehen.
So, zuletzt wäre noch zu sagen, daß nachden ich das TNC noch auf
den TRX ab-geglichen habe das ganze UFB funktioniert ,wie gesagt
seit gut 6 Monaten. Garantie übernehme ich natürlich keine, egal
in welcher Form auch immer, aber das dürfte ja klar sein..hi
So, ich hoffe daß ich Dir weiterhelfen konnte.
73's de Thomas aus Bad Tölz ,JN57SS
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| Umbauanleitung des
Dualband-Handfunkgerätes Alinco DJ580 für Betrieb mit 9k6 |
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Hallo Om's,
Ich habe mich einmal daran gemacht mein DJ580 für 9k6 umzubauen.
Als erstes fiel mir nach dem Aufschrauben des Gerätes auf, daß
hier wirklich kein Platz ist, um eine zusätzliche Buchse
einzubauen. Die Lösung, welche ein anderer Om schon einmal
vorgeschlagen hatte, die vorhandene V/U-Buchse zu nehmen gefiel
mir nicht, da ich dann einen zusätzlichen Stecker für die PTT
benutzen müßte. Also habe ich mir etwas anderes einfallen lassen.
Die vorhandene V/U-Buchse habe ich ausgebaut, und das Loch etwa
0,5 mm aufgebohrt. Hier paßt nun der untere Teil des Innenlebens
einer Mini-DIN-Kabelbuchse hinein. Ich hatte grad 6-polig mit
passendem Stecker im Hause, aber es geht auch jede andere. Es
werden nur 4 Kontakte (TX,RX,PTT,Masse)gebraucht. Die V/U-Buchse
ist auf einer kleinen Platine eingelötet. Diese Platine kann man
leicht herausschrauben, um die Buchse dann auszulöten. Die
Gummidichtung, welche von innen im Gehäuse eingesetzt ist, muß man
dann für die neue Buchse entsprechend auschneiden.
Als erstes habe ich also gebohrt, das Innenteil meiner Kabelbuchse
stramm eingesetzt und mit etwas 2-Komponenten-Kleber fixiert. Die
Buchse steht ca. 10mm aus dem Gehäuse heraus, aber wenn es fertig
ist, sieht es so aus, als müßte es so sein. Sie sitzt dann neben
der BNC-Buchse hinter dem Lautstärkeregler UHF und stört absolut
nicht.
Danach kann man von innen an die 4 zu benutzenden Kontakte der
Buchse jeweils einen Draht entsprechend der benötigten Länge
anlöten.
Nun muß man die darunterliegende große Platine ausbauen. Dazu
erstmal die große Weißblechabdeckung abschrauben, danach die
verbleibenden 2 Schrauben der Platine herausdrehen. Nun die
Antennenbuchse ablöten. Danach kann man die Platine herauskippen.
Man muß mit dem TX-Signal an den UHF-Oszillatoreingang MOU gehen.
Hier kann man die Leiterbahn vom Steckeranschluß (Verbindung zum
anderen Board, dritte von oben) verfolgen, hier ist die Schaltung
ganz hilfreich. Ich habe den Draht an den Widerstand R528 (22k)
und Kondensator C584 (1000p) gelötet.
Nun kann man die Platine wieder befestigen, und das Weißblech
wieder einschrauben. Antennenbuchse wieder anlöten, und die
Platine mit den Mic- und Lautsprecherbuchsen wieder einsetzen. Mit
dem PTT-Anschluß kann man über ca.
2k2 an die Mikrofonbuchse gehen. Masse ist in der Gegend auch
reichlich vorhanden...hi.
Nun fehlt noch der Draht für das RX-Signal. Hierzu muß man an die
Platine in der anderen Gehäusehälfte gehen. Das Rx-Signal greift
man am besten zwischen R113 (1k) und R122 (47k) ab. R113 kommt von
Pin 11 am UHF-Demodulator IC 101. Leider liegt er aber auf der
Unterseite der Platine. Unter dem IC101 ist eine
Durchkontaktierung von Pin 11 auf die Unterseite. Da kann man dann
die Leiter- bahn bis R122 verfolgen. Dort am besten den Draht
anlöten.
Nun kann alles wieder zusammengebaut werden, mit dem
gleichzeitigen Gebet, daß doch bitte noch alles funktionieren
möchte...hi.
Bei mir klappte es auf Anhieb mit 9k6, weiterhin ist natürlich
1k2-Betrieb über die Mic-LS-Buchsen möglich. Zur Anpassung der
Filterkurve mußte ich bei meinem 9k6-Modem nach DF9IC alle 4
Jumper ziehen, damit klappt es am besten. Außerdem kann ich mit
einem TX-Delay von 18 noch gut arbeiten, was für ein PLL-Gerät
nicht schlecht ist (mein Quarz-TX zum Vergleich TXD 8).
Abschließend möchte ich noch bemerken, daß ich diesen Umbau nur
Om's empfehle, die etwas Erfahrung im Umgang mit SMD-Geräten haben.
Eine feine Lötspitze, eine Lupe und eine ruhige Hand sind
Voraussetzung. Weiterhin übernehme ich natürlich keine
Verantwortung für irgendwelche Schäden oder sonstiges.
Viel Spaß beim Basteln wünscht
Fred, DL6BAW @ DB0AHO |
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| Extended frq. DJ-580 new mod |
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Hi folks,
Here is a "new" (ish !) mod,concerning the expansion of this
excellant rig.
Everyone knows of the "cut blue wire for extended RX" and even the
other one for TX ! but once done,there is no way of reversing the
proccess...
Oh yes there is !! listen carefully...
Turn off rig,
Hold down the function button and turn on,
Still holding the function button,
Switch off.
(do NOT let go of the function button until the rig is OFF,or you
will reset the radio,and lose all your memorys !)
The radio is now "as standard" ie Ham only freqs... now to toggle
the wideband operation,use the #212 keycode (as listed in the
manual,for enabling the airband)
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User
comment |
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| Extendet mod |
To return to extendet mod
without restarting the radio just type
#ABC. I try this on DJ-580E. |
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| DJ-580T 800 MHz software mod |
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Here's a neat keyboard mod which will allow the Alinco DJ680T to
receive in the 800 band:
This mod requires you to already have performed the AM
Aircraft/Expanded RX mod described in the owners manual (cut the
red wire and reset the radio).
Having done that, place your radio in VFO mode on the UHF band.
Hold down the [Function] button then repeatedly press the [UHF]
button until you see a number in the display like 875.00. You can
now tune from 810.00 to 998.9875 in .0025 steps!
Also, having done this, while in VFO mode on either band if you
hold the [Function] button and repeatedly press the respective
[VHF] or [UHF] key you will toggle between your standard VFO and
the expanded RX VFO. Neat!
73's de Lee n8vyh @ wb8h.#semi.mi.usa.na
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KB2LJJ