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Modifications for the
Icom IC-706MKII
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ICOM 706 MKII Extended transmit mod |
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Special on IC706mkII |
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TX range expansion for IC-706MKIIG |
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Expand only mod for the IC-706MkII |
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Mike Amp Mod for IC 706 MK II |
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mods IC706 MKIIG por EA1DOU (ver. Española) |
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Modifikation IC-706MKIIG für 9k6 PR und Pactor |
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IC-706MKIIG mod |
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More talk power on SSB from your Icom
706Mk2/Mk2G and Alinco DX70TH |
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Mods for Japanese version IC-706MK2G |
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Icom IC-706MK2 cw keyer |
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IC-706MK2G increase recieve |
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Icom 706mkIIG Mic |
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Convert IC-706MK2G from American to European
version |
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ICOM 706 Mk2G IF filter change |
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IC-706mkIIG fan mod |
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ICOM LDG interface and ICOM IC-706MKIIG |
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| ICOM 706 MKII Extended
transmit mod |
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From: "Len SantaMaria, KC2ADV"
This file may be freely distributed as long as it
remains intact, with no modifications, additions, or
deletions.
DISCLAIMER:
I assume no responsibility for damage or inaccuracies
contained in this document. In other words, USE THIS AT
YOUR OWN RISK. It worked for me, however I don't know if
it will work for you.
WARNING #1: This mod requires the ability to remove
surface mount diodes. Only those who are qualified to do
this should attempt this mod.
WARNING #2: This mod seems to erase all memory channels,
etc. You may want to save this info for reprogramming.
Disassembly:
- Face the front of the
radio towards you.
- Remove the three screws in
a row across the middle of the top of the radio.
- Remove the two screws at
the top rear (on the sides) of the radio.
- Pry the top cover off from
the back.
- Disconnect the speaker at
the connector.
Modification:
- Near the top rear of the
main circuit board, there is an small, oblong metal
can. Directly below the right side of this can is
two surface mount diodes with a white silk-screened
box around them. There is also what appears to be a
circuit board part number just to the left of it
(mine says B4916D). Remove the LEFT diode in the
box.
- To the left of this, there
is a test point marked CP3. Just to the left and
above this test point is another box with two
*vertically* mounted surface-mount diodes (Note:
there is also a place for 5 more *horizontally*
mounted diodes, with 3 installed). Remove the LEFT
vertically oriented diode.
Reassembly:
- Reconnect the speaker.
- Put the top cover back on.
Insert the top cover tabs into the slots and lower
into position.
- Replace all of the screws.
My radio did not require a reset, however I did lose all
of my channel memories. It seems to be able to transmit
everywhere except below .5 Mhz. I have not tested the
power output at all frequencies yet.
I hope this helps everyone who have been waiting
patiently for this mod.
Any comments can be directed to me:
Len - KC2ADV
email: lenny@handy-man.com.
From: "Rafel" jarel@box43.gnet.pl
If you can read this, its come from Your www:
Len - KC2ADV
email: lenny@handy-man.com
... wrote:
...
>Modification:
>6. Near the top rear of the main circuit board, there is an small, oblong
>metal can. Directly below the right side of this can is two surface mount
>diodes with a white silk-screened box around them. There is also what
>appears to be a circuit board part number just to the left of it (mine
>says B4916D). Remove the LEFT diode in the box.
>7. To the left of this, there is a test point marked CP3. Just to the left
>and above this test point is another box with two *vertically* mounted
>surface-mount diodes (Note: there is also a place for 5 more *horizontally*
>mounted diodes, with 3 installed). Remove the LEFT vertically oriented
>diode.
For first, my circuit board part number is B4916F, i
don`t understand you what diodes i must cut off, explain
me, my smd diodes looks like this:
O<>O 7
O O 6
O<>O 5
J25 O<>O 4
O<>O 3
O O O O
1[] [] 2 B4916F 8[] []9
O O O O
CP3
<__]
Diodes: 1,2,3,4,5,7,8,9 are instaled
Diode: 6 is not instaled
My version is with Tone 1750Hz, European i think, RX
30kHz-200MHz, TX in amateur bands only, the serial
number if needed is: 02101 buyed in 18.06.97 as new in
Poland.
Sorry for my bugs.
Can You type me what diodes ? I think 1 and 3.
Rafa´ SP6-1313WR, Klub SP6KBE :) Kontakt: jarel@box43.gnet.pl
Info on the diodes from another European user:
d129
---- (d111 none)
d112
d113
d114
d d d d
1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
6 5 8 9
D116 and D118 are responsible
for out of band TX. D115 and D119 enables RX from 30KHz
to 200MHz. D113 is responsible for 6M RX and D114 is
responsible for 6M TX. I do not have info about D129 and
D112.
Rafa3 SP6-1313WR, Klub SP6KBE
:) Kontakt: jarel@box43.gnet.pl
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From: SM6WXO
I have tried some special buttons on IC706mkII:
Push TS and DISPLAY while power up and you will see a
strange power on check.
Push P.AMP/ATT and RIT/SUB while power up and you will
be able to see SHIFT-ADJ on your 706mkII. Dont know what
this is for, recalibrating ?
I think that these things even works on the older
version of 706, dont know.
73 - Dennis, SM6WXO @ SM6JZZ
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| TX range expansion for
IC-706MKIIG |
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Author: Karel
OK1DNH - kebert@ext.epe.cz
TX range expansion on HF, VHF and UHF is
very simple. When modified the radio will also transmit
AM mode in the aircraft band with approximately 1 watt
at 118 MHz to about 17 watts am carrier at 136 MHz.
On MAIN BOARD under speaker
near Xtal you can see two rows of solder dots for SMD
components. Only on position 10 (from left) is diode
(D2030), which is necessary to remove.
Thats all.
After connecting power radio
will be reseted and TX range is expanded.
| More
pictures from Ken Bessler KG0WX.
Transmit power
output after modification
Power output in watts as measured from an
uncalibrated Diawa CN-620 wattmeter with vhf,uhf
dummy load. Power output on radio set to highest
level.
| FREQ |
FM PWR |
AM CARR |
FREQ |
FM PWR |
| 105 MHz |
1.0 |
0.0 |
400 MHz |
2.0 |
| 110 |
1.0 |
0.0 |
405 |
7.0 |
| 115 |
2.0 |
0.0 |
410 |
9.0 |
| 118 |
3.5 |
0.7 |
415 |
10.0 |
| 120 |
5.0 |
1.0 |
420 |
12.0 |
| 125 |
14.0 |
3.5 |
425 |
15.0 |
| 130 |
20.0 |
15.0 |
430 |
18.0 |
| 135 |
25.0 |
17.0 |
435 |
20.0 |
| 140 |
28.0 |
18.0 |
440 |
20.0 |
| 145 |
32.0 |
18.0 |
445 |
19.0 |
| 150 |
32.0 |
18.0 |
450 |
18.0 |
| 155 |
20.0 |
18.0 |
455 |
15.0 |
| 160 |
13.0 |
10.0 |
460 |
8.0 |
| 165 |
6.0 |
1.5 |
465 |
0.8 |
| 170 |
1.5 |
0.0 |
467 |
0.15 |
| 175 |
0.5 |
|
470 |
0.00 |
| 180 |
0.1 |
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| 185 |
0.0 |
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These are the readings I took
after performing the mod. I took readings at key
frequencies throughout the band to measure the
efficiencies of the different band pass filters,
especially in the HF band. The attenuation at the edges
of the filters are very visible especially at the 8MHz
cross point.
All readings were took with a
bird wattmeter and a home made RF voltmeter, the latter
is not reliable over 200MHz.
Thanks. Olivier, VE2NSM.
|
MHz |
V @ 50 Ohms |
W from Bird Wattmeter |
W from RF Voltmeter |
|
0.1 |
0,00 |
- |
0,00 |
|
0.2 |
0,04 |
- |
0,00 |
|
0.3 |
0,31 |
- |
0,00 |
|
0.5 |
1,95 |
- |
0,01 |
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0.65 |
4,16 |
- |
0,11 |
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0.75 |
8,60 |
1,5 |
0,59 |
|
0.85 |
24,20 |
7 |
5,25 |
|
0.95 |
52,00 |
18 |
25,01 |
|
1.2 |
98,20 |
75 |
90,37 |
|
1.5 |
99,40 |
80 |
92,61 |
|
1.995 |
104,70 |
87 |
102,82 |
|
2 |
107,90 |
86 |
109,25 |
|
3 |
101,40 |
92 |
96,40 |
|
3.995 |
104,60 |
95 |
102,62 |
|
4 |
95,80 |
92 |
85,98 |
|
6 |
103,40 |
96 |
100,27 |
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7.995 |
88,60 |
75 |
73,45 |
|
8 |
99,70 |
95 |
93,17 |
|
10 |
103,20 |
98 |
99,88 |
|
14.995 |
101,90 |
96 |
97,36 |
|
15 |
102,40 |
96 |
98,32 |
|
20 |
102,40 |
96 |
98,32 |
|
21.995 |
101,80 |
95 |
97,17 |
|
22 |
102,20 |
96 |
97,94 |
|
25 |
101,20 |
94/92 |
96,02 |
|
28 |
99,50 |
90/90 |
92,80 |
|
29.995 |
97,90 |
86/87 |
89,81 |
|
30 |
95,60 |
82/82 |
85,61 |
|
35 |
93,80 |
80 |
82,40 |
|
38 |
91,30 |
76 |
78,03 |
|
40 |
89,30 |
77 |
74,62 |
|
43 |
95,10 |
85 |
84,71 |
|
48 |
97,30 |
89 |
88,71 |
|
50 |
98,00 |
90 |
90,00 |
|
54 |
100,20 |
93 |
94,12 |
|
56 |
100,90 |
94 |
95,45 |
|
58 |
99,10 |
90 |
92,05 |
|
59.5 |
94,10 |
82 |
82,93 |
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59.995 |
89,90 |
72 |
75,64 |
|
60 |
13,50 |
1 |
1,56 |
|
62 |
16,50 |
1,25 |
2,37 |
|
65 |
26,40 |
3 |
6,27 |
|
70 |
55,40 |
14/22 |
28,44 |
|
75 |
63,30 |
22/37 |
37,25 |
|
78 |
71,00 |
27/50 |
46,98 |
|
80 |
71,90 |
2752 |
48,19 |
|
83 |
65,50 |
22/40 |
39,91 |
|
86 |
54,40 |
15/28 |
27,41 |
|
90 |
39,20 |
7/14 |
14,09 |
|
95 |
22,00 |
1,5/4 |
4,31 |
|
100 |
14,30 |
0,75/1,8 |
1,76 |
|
105 |
12,10 |
1,3 |
1,23 |
|
110 |
9,80 |
1 |
0,79 |
|
115 |
7,40 |
0,5 |
0,43 |
|
120 |
7,30 |
- |
0,41 |
|
125 |
11,30 |
1 |
1,07 |
|
130 |
22,60 |
5,2 |
4,56 |
|
135 |
47,00 |
21 |
20,37 |
|
140 |
63,20 |
37 |
37,13 |
|
145 |
70,30 |
48 |
46,05 |
|
150 |
72,20 |
52 |
48,59 |
|
155 |
60,00 |
34 |
33,42 |
|
160 |
39,50 |
15,5 |
14,31 |
|
163 |
29,90 |
9 |
8,10 |
|
165 |
22,10 |
5 |
4,35 |
|
167 |
15,50 |
2,5 |
2,08 |
|
169 |
10,60 |
1,2 |
0,93 |
|
171 |
7,40 |
0,5 |
0,43 |
|
174 |
4,40 |
- |
0,13 |
|
178 |
1,91 |
- |
0,01 |
|
183 |
0,33 |
- |
0,00 |
|
190 |
0,16 |
- |
0,00 |
|
195 |
0,35 |
- |
0,00 |
|
199.995 |
0,60 |
- |
0,00 |
|
400 |
6,33 |
0,8 |
0,30 |
|
405 |
14,10 |
3,8 |
1,70 |
|
410 |
18,30 |
6 |
2,94 |
|
415 |
20,70 |
7,5 |
3,80 |
|
420 |
24,10 |
10 |
5,20 |
|
425 |
31,10 |
17 |
8,78 |
|
430 |
30,20 |
16 |
8,27 |
|
435 |
29,20 |
15 |
7,72 |
|
440 |
30,90 |
16 |
8,67 |
|
445 |
30,30 |
16 |
8,32 |
|
450 |
28,00 |
14 |
7,08 |
|
455 |
27,40 |
13 |
6,77 |
|
460 |
20,60 |
8.5 |
3,76 |
|
463 |
14,50 |
4.5 |
1,81 |
|
466 |
7,80 |
1.6 |
0,48 |
|
468 |
4,50 |
0.6 |
0,14 |
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470 |
2,35 |
- |
0,03 |
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2-30MHz plug |
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2-30Mhz plug / 25-60MHz
plug |
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25-60MHz plug |
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25-60MHz plug / 100-250MHz
plug |
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100-250MHz plug |
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200-500MHz plug |
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Not reliable |
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| Expand only mod for the
IC-706MkII |
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It
should be well know,
that the IC-706mkIIG
does not offer the best
frequency stability. You
might have already
recognized this if you
ever used your 706 for
modes like JT65. For
these modes is it very
important to have a very
low frequency drift.
Unfortunately, the TCXO
(CR-282) doesn't really
help in this case. It
does improve the
stability but not really
the drift during the
first minute which is
the most important one
in WSJT since the
TX-time is less than a
minute. This
modification consists
two things, replacing a
varicap-diode by a
capacitor and give the
fan some power so he
runs even in receive
mode. Once this
modification is done,
the frequency stability
is improved a lot as
seen in picture 1.

Picture 1: frequency
drift vs. temperature
Just a few steps to
improve the frequency
stability of your
IC-706mkIIG:
-
Remove the lid on
the back, then
remove the little
lid of the XO (as
shown in picture 2).

Picture 2: open the
lid of the XO
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Locate the little
varicap-diode right
next to the L601
(picture 3). Remove
this diode.

Picture 3: diode is
right next to the
L601
-
Now replace this
diode by a 33pF
ceramic capacity
(N470). The one leg
to the upper solder
pad where the diode
was, the other to
ground. Ground can
be easily found at
the metal shielding.
-
As you know, the
radio gets very hot
just by receiving
because the fan does
not work if you do
not transmit. The
fan should run all
the time. This can
be done by simply
inserting a 100Ohm
resistor (or two
56Ohm, ¼ Watt in
serie) between the
red fan wire and the
top of the
inductivity as shown
in picture 4. The
fan runs now very
slowly all the time.
-
You may now let the
radio run for about
20minutes. Tune to
50MHz and check the
frequency by
transmitting. If the
frequency does not
match, adjust it by
tuning carefully
with L601.
This modification has
been done on several
radios. It always worked
very good but I cannot
give a guarantee. I am
not responsible for any
damages on your radio. |
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| Expand only mod for the
IC-706MkII |
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Author: David
Spicer,VK7ZDJ
HI ALL, as an owner of a IC-706MkII, I have noticed that
there is no detailed photos of how to go about the mods
on any of the mod sites, so I pulled my radio out of the
car and I have taken some photos of the only mod that I
was interested in doing to my radio,............EXPAND
RX /TX.
I hope that the photos will help all new owners and or
old ones that have not been game enough to tackle the
mod, its quite a simple mod to do as long as you have
good quality desoldering equipment, if not then do not
attempt it, take it to someone that has the gear.
If you follow the text file on this page by "Len
SantaMaria, KC2ADV"
headed,.......Icom 706 MkII Extended Transmit Mod and
use my photos as a reference then I do not think you can
go wrong, my radio works like magic.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THESE MODS WERE DONE TO AN AUSTRALIAN
IC-706MkII RADIO,........AS FAR AS I CAN TELL THERE IS
NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MY RADIO AND THE AMERICAN MODEL,
IF ANYONE FINDS THIS NOT TO BE CORRECT THEN I AM SORRY
BECAUSE I CANNOT HELP YOU.







This information and photos was
supplied by David Spicer,VK7ZDJ.
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User comment |
Expanded tx mod works on Canadian Model |
From:
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I removed the 2 diodes
listed in the mod and it works beautifully. As
well as clearing memories, the mod will clear
information related to the installed optional
filters. You will need to go into the intial
setup menu and reselect any optional filters you
have installed. See page 49 of user manual, Menu
items 19 and 20. While you are in there, check
the other settings. To enter the intial setup
menu, you hold down the lock button and power on
the radio. |
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| Mike Amp Mod for IC 706
MK II |
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It is based on information provided by
ICOM Europe.
The level of the IC 706 MK II
microfone amplification does not satisfy under certain
circumstances like heavy pile up or operators with faint
voice.
A litle modification does help
to increase the amplification level a lot: The 5,6 k ohm
SMD type resistor R235 located on the main unit has to
be replaced by an approximately 1,0 k ohm type.
After modification the personal
level of the microfone amplifier can be set in the
initial setup (menue Q2).
- To replace the resistor
first open the top of the case by unsrewing the 3
screws in the middle and the 2 screws back on the
left and right side. Remove the top carefully and
disconnect the loudspeaker cable.
- Locate the main unit ( the
one near the display front side) and disconnect all
connectors.
- Locate the 5 screws
holding the main unit and unscrew them.
- Pull out the main unit and
turn it over. This is the side of interest.
- Locate the SMD resistor
R325 and unsolder it. Solder in the approximately
1.0 k ohm type.
- Reassemble the main unit.
- A reset of the radio is
not necessary.
- Don`t forget to set your
personal mic amp level in the initial setup (menue
Q2).
Remarks:
Although I modified my own IC
706 MK II without any problems I certainly will not be
responsible for any damage of your radio following this
modification description. You are acting on your own
risk.
vy 73
Juergen, DL5EBS |
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| mods IC706 MKIIG por
EA1DOU (ver. Española) |
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| Modifikation IC-706MKIIG
für 9k6 PR und Pactor |
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Author: André
Loos DO1CAL
Es folgen
4 Bilder im *.gif
- Format die den Umbau für 9k6 PR und Pactor beschreiben
für den IC-706MKIIG.
Viel Spaß damit. Ich übernehme
keine Haftung für evtl. entstehende Schäden am
Transceiver !
Die 4 Dateien habe ich im PR-Netz
gefunden.
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Author: Tobias,
DL1TWA
Okay, I've got a new Icom
IC-706MKIIG info for you:
There is a mod saying:
"Push P.AMP/ATT and RIT/SUB
while power up and you will be able to see SHIFT-ADJ on
your 706mkII. Dont know what this is for, recalibrating
?"
I have tested this and figured
out the following:
When the SHIFT knob is in the
middle position and you press SHIFT-ADJ, then "Good" is
displayed. Nothing happens after power on.
But when you turn the SHIFT knob a little to the left or
to the right, then good is displayed and next time you
power up you have a modified shift adjustment. The SHIFT
graph is different, too!
If you turn the knob a bit more
to the left or to the right, then "Error" is displayed
and nothing happens.
I wrote to Icom Europe and they
say, that this function (P.AMP/ATT + RIT/SUB) is only
used in the factory during the production process of the
IC-706MKIIG. to calibrate the centersetting of the shift
know.
Afterwards a new calibration
shouldn't be necessary.
When you press the arrow in the SHIFT-ADJ menu for one
second, the position of the shift know is stored as the
new center setting.
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User comment |
706 mod |
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MODIFICATIONS:
WARNING: Improperly performed modifications can
severely damage your
radio. have performed these modifications
successfully, but I
offer no guarantee or warranty for them. Proceed
at your own risk.
TOOLS NEEDED:
1) Small philips-head screwdriver 2) Tweezers 3)
Magnifying glass 4)
Low-wattage (15 watt) soldering iron 5)
Long-nosed pliers
MODIFICATION 1: Enables out-of-band transmit for
1.6 MHz to 54 MHz.
This does not enable extended VHF transmit This
does not enable AM or FM broadcast band
transmit. Your memories will be cleared after
this modification, since you need to reset the
CPU.
1) Open the top of the radio by removing the 3
top screws and 2 side
screws. Look at the radio from the with the
front panel facing you.
screws.
2) Gently pull up the speaker and set is aside
without damaging the
speaker or the wires that attach it to the rig.
3) Note the silver rectangular box near the
middle of the PCB marked
something like "9 MHz SSB Filter".
4) Move your eyes up from this filter toward the
back of the radio.
Just before you get to the "D 108" marking, you
will see two tiny
diodes, two blank spaces, and one additional
diode. They look
something like this:
D108
[XX] [XX] [ ] [ ] [XX]
Remove this diode ^^^^
5) The second diode from the left needs to be
removed. I did this
by crushing it with long-nosed pliers. You can
also heat it with a
low-wattage soldering iron and pull it up with
tweezers. Be sure
not to damage the other diodes or the PCB. Be
sure that you don't
apply too much heat, since the heat can damage
the PCB and the
other diodes.
6) Re-assemble the radio. Reset the CPU by
pressing and holding
down the UP and DOWN buttons on the front panel
and pressing
POWER.
Improved VHF recieve mod:
154-200 MHz RANGE
To open up the 154-200 range,cut the yellow wire
on the plug labled "j-4" on the right side of
the radio on the bottom,the book points to this
connector.
did this and it opened up the rx between 154-200
mhz.
(It was printed in CQ VHF a couple of months
ago.)
For those who like to scan VHF Hi-band, there is
a mod that restores sensitivity, but at the cost
of reduced sensitivity below 120 MHz.
This allows the filter to switch at the corner
frequency (apparently around 129 MHz) as you
tune.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
There are no guarantees you won't trash your
radio.
Remove the radio top and bottom covers according
to the manual.Remove the speaker. Now with the
radio facing you and right side up, you'll see a
single connector with discrete wires at the rear
of the control board. The fourth wire from your
left should be a yellow wire
(caution, the 5th and 6th wires on the other end
of the connector are yellow too, don't get
confused).
Disconnect this wire from the connector. This
will enable the 2 meter band-pass filter to work
outside the 2 meter band, and will restore
sensitivity between about 130 MHz and about 165
MHz (above and below that range, sensitivity
still stinks, especially above 165 MHz).
Before this mod, a low pass filter with a corner
frequency around 129 MHz was in the circuit all
the time except when you were actually tuning
inside the 2 meter band, and that killed high
band sensitivity completely. Before removing the
yellow wire, sensitivity at 155 MHz was 30 uV
for an S1 indication,after the yellow wire is
removed, sensitivity increases so that only 0.5
uV is required for a S1 reading. At 165 MHz
after the mod,sensitivity is 3 uV for an S1
reading, before the mod, a very large signal was
required for an indication.
Disconnecting the yellow wire has the
unfortunate side effect of reducing sensitivity
between 60 and 129 MHz since the radio never
switches from the 2m bandpass filter to the low
pass filter. Signals below 60 MHz don't go
through either filter and are unaffected by the
mod.
Now here's how to get the low pass filter back
when tuning below 129 MHz. On the bottom board,
right behind the MENU button,
there are 5 SMD transistors. These transistors
apparently switch the VCOs for the various band
segments. The one in the middle of the 5
apparently switches the 60-129 MHz VCO. The
single pin (one side of the SMD transistor has 2
pins the other only 1) switches to 5 volts when
this VCO is active, and is low otherwise.
This is exactly what we need to feed the yellow
wire. There's a board trace coming from this pin
over to a feedthru hole near J8. Connect the
yellow wire you disconnected earlier here.
The filter should now toggle between low pass
and 2m bandpass as you tune below and above 129
MHz, and you should have good sensitivity both
above and below this frequency (at least up
through 165 MHz).
Remember, CAUTION WARNING This is tiny SMD
stuff. If you trash your radio, you're on your
own.
As far as FM Broadcast intermod in the Aircraft
band, I noticed the IF is a little overdriven
into compression, so I turn the preamp
off(greeen to no light---preamp switch), and
noticed no difference in sensitivity, intermod
in aircraft band disappeared.Running the preamp
in the Aircraft 118-129 does not really help
sensitivity, even though the S-meter shows
higher signal levels (jumps around alot due to
saturating IF when signals are not there!!! )
the noise floor actually, degrades, thus I leave
the switch (no preamp-black instead of green).
Leaving it on green is just driving the IF into
saturation, with worst dynamic range.
Now connecting it to the VCO switch bank, the
radio performs to my satifaction, hearing the
weather at 162, forestry at 171, TV audio
near 200Mhz and remembering to turn the preamp
off in 118-129 aircraft region, no 2 meter
images any more in 82-83Mhz area from 2 meters.
I can listen to FM broadcast in the 88-108Mhz
area.
Q: Does this mod affect HF or 6m?
A: The mod affects only frequencies above 60
MHz. If you just cut or
remove the yellow wire, the 2m bandpass filter
is used all the
time.
After the mod you can listen to the airport on
134 MHz but 128.4 is still drowned in intermod
from the FM BC band.
Proceed at your own risk
The receiver sensitivity above 120MHz (except
the band between 144-148MHz) is very poor and
also the transmitted FM deviation for NARROW FM
is too small; therefore I did some tests and
came to the following two modifications.
To carry out these modifications it is necessary
to use the IC706 service manual, which can be
bought at any ICOM dealer.
1. When choosing NARROW at FM, then during
transmitting the max.
deviation is reduced from 4.8kHz to 2.4kHz. It
is still desirable
to choose NARROW at FM because the receive
performance is better
then.
After changing resistor R272 from 1K to 8K2. (at
the bottom side of the MAIN UNIT), then the max.
deviation during transmitting goes from 4.8kHz
to 4.3kHz when choosing NARROW at FM.
The modulation at AM is also changed now, but
this can be corrected with potmeter R271.
2. To improve the receiver sensitivity between
120 - 144MHz and
between 148 - 200MHz the following modifications
can be carried
out.
At the PA UNIT, change the 60 - 200MHz bandpass:
1) Remove C53(20p), C152(20p), C153(12p) and
C154(20p).
2) Short-circuit L49(82nH) by soldering an
interconnection at the
place of the removed C153.
3) The inductance of L16, L17, L18 and L19 must
be reduced somewhat.
This can be done by separating the windings
somewhat with a small
screwdriver.
Now the sensitivity is good up to about 175MHz.
Also the sensitivity in the airband is much
better now.
For receiving above 175MHz the low-pass filters
at the ANT2 input have to be changed (components
around L16, L17, L18, L19.
I would not recommend that, because the spurious
suppression during 2M transmitting becomes worse
then!
To expand the band on the VHF portion.
(I have not tried this mod.
I received this infomation via e-mail)
Caution: This is quite involved. If you are not
too good you might be advised to get someone who
has the experience to handle this mod!
1. Remove the main board from the unit.
Keep the cutout hole away from you. This I
consider the top of
the board.
2. Remove the shield from the top of the board.
There are 30-40 solder
points from the shield to the board.
3. Under the board on the top of the board,
remove R-353 and Q-38.
They are located to the left of the IC-36 chip
on the top of the
board under the shield.
4. On the underside of the board, Locate IC-32.
There are two IC
chips.
IC-32 will be just down and to the right of the
shield.
5. Using a pointer, point at the left upper pin,
and go toward the
top of the board. You will find a trace that
stops. It comes out
from under IC-31, and stops. It should be the
sixth trace up from
the top of the Chip.
6. Using a Xacto knife, (or something similar)
Cut the trace the bend
halfway between IC-31 and the solder point.
7. Make a jumper wire, and jump the connection,
from Pin 11 of IC-32
to the newly isolated trace.
8. Reassemble the radio.
Transmit from 200 Hz to 200 MHZ continuous!!!
ICOM does not warranty these mods. |
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| More talk power on SSB
from your Icom 706Mk2/Mk2G and Alinco DX70TH |
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The following adjustments are to increase
the average talk power on SSB for the above radios. If
your radio is still under warranty, check with your
supplier to ensure warranty will not be invalidated
For both these adjustments you
will need a very small cross-point screwdriver and a
steady hand! Do not proceed if you are not confident!
Alinco DX70TH: Turn up the
microphone gain as detailed in the manual. This should
be set to maximum. The adjustments described here is
concerned with the ALC control. ALC action is indicated
by the TX light which should glow brighter when speaking
into the microphone.
Remove the top cover and locate
the high power/50w switch (this switch location is
detailed in the manual, it is the only switch visible
under the top cover). To the left of the switch there
should be a small pot which is for the ALC. Just above
the pot printed on the circuit board is 100w. Set the
radio to 28Mhz and while speaking into the mike turn the
pot counter clockwise until the TX light just fails to
glow brighter. Back off slightly to restore the increase
in brigthness of the TX light while speaking into the
microphone. Replace the top cover.
This adjustment increases talk
power considerably and for local contacts on SSB the
compressor should be switched off.
Icom 706Mk2/Mk2G: The Icom 706
series are notorious for low talk power on SSB. A simple
tweek of the ALC can solve the problem. This procedure
was published in Radcom July 1999 but is updated here to
include the IC706Mk2G. As far as I can ascertain, the
later model 706MK2G seems not to suffer from the problem
of low talk power and this mod may not be necessary.
Remove the top cover. At the front edge of the main
circuit board (to the left of the crystal filter slots,
with the front of the radio facing you) should be a
small pot. In the 706Mk2 this is R511 and in the 706Mk2G
it is R579 (the number is not actually printed on the
board!). The pot may be obscured by printed ribbon. This
pot needs to be turned clockwise while speaking into the
microphone, with power set to high and microphone gain
at 6 (compressor should be switched off). Adjust for
maximum talk power.
The article in Radcom claims
that this adjustment will bring the 706Mk2 up to 100w
pep without the need for the compressor. For the 706MK2G
(early models), adjusting R579 can give a dramatic
increase in talk power although you will find that you
will still need to have the microphone gain turned up to
10 and the compressor switched on. On my own set I have
noticed that some bands give more talk power than
others. On 160, 80 and 2 meters I get nearly full power
by speaking into the mike (gain at max and compression
on). However on other bands the increased talk power is
not so dramatic particulalry on 10, 20 meters).
Another way to boost the talk
power on the 706 series is to use a preamplified
microphone. If you do decide on a preamplified
microphone reset R511/R579 back to it's original postion
or distortion may result.
This
article can also be found at
http://www.qsl.net/g0fvi/adjust.html.
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| Mods for Japanese version
IC-706MK2G |
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Hello. I found this picture on a Japanese
website about how to mod the Japanese version of the
IC-706MK2G. I recently bought a Japanese version of this
radio. It seems that the Japanese version is a bit
different when it comes to the diode configuration.
I did first remove the D2030
diode on my radio, but that did not open up the TX
range. Then I removed the D2028 diode, and this opened
up TX from 1,6-26 MHz and 28-30 MHz.
TX is still only 50-54 +
144-146 + 430-440 MHz on VHF/UHF. RX is now 0,030-200
MHz + 400-470 MHz. For my purposes it works fine with
this range.
Later I found this picture on a
Japanese site suggesting that only D2028 is to be
removed on the Japanese version. I don't understand the
Japanese text, so maybe someone can translate it ?

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User comment |
ICOM706MK2G
MODS JAPANES TEXT TRANS |
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IC-706MK2G Japanese text
translate !
改造後 受信周波數 : mods is after RX ranges
~ 側 : front cover open
~取 : removed the D2028 diode
~送信改造 : mods is after TX ranges. removed the
D2028 diode front.
CB帶~ : citizen band also and V/UHF Band Mods is
TX range...
have nice TRX mods!!!
All rig for japanese
market not open on cb channel (cpu programed for
japanese market) |
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Author: colin
f5vhz - f5vhz@yahoo.co.uk.
This mod is for the mic of a IC-706MK2.
This allows better use of cw by installing a paddle in
the mic.
Wire the contacts of a
dissassembled relay with an isolated paddle (important)
to the up down contacts and remove the old buttons from
the small board and glue them in to the top of the mic
to fill the holes
enjoy colin f5vhz
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| IC-706MK2G increase
recieve |
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If you would like to increased
receive on your 706mk2g, here is the procedure.
Take off top cover with front
facing you. Behind the left of the VFO against the front
of the case is 2 square cans with black Phillips screws
in them. Don't adjust these, right behind them in
the middle is a metal adjustment screw that looks like
most of the other ones, like the adjustments for power
etc.
Have your radio on SSB and turn
clockwise and you will hear the receive increase. Only
turn it a little, that does a lot, you don't want to
over do it. Too much will bring in a lot of noise.
I've done it to mine and it
really made the ears better than from the factory. As
you know, the receive is great on these rigs, but this
improves it more. It takes a jewelers flat head
screwdriver, be careful. I'm not responsable if you mess
up.
73s
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Author: Tom
This information will allow the use of an
Icom HM-56A DTMF mic with an Icom 706. I have ONLY used
this on my 706mkIIG so test it on all others at your own
risk.
You will need an 8 conductor
(RJ-45) ethernet connector (male) and a crimping tool.
Radio shack has a non-crimp version if you don't want to
invest $45 for a new tool.
If you place the tab down, pin
1 is the furthest to the left (see picture)
The color code is:
1. Red
2. Black
3.
4. Green
5. Braid
6.
7. Blue
8.
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User comment |
Mic input ? |
From:
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I do have a comment on the
Mic input.
I looked at this mods last night and found that
the WHITE wire which is the MIC INPUT is
missing.
This wire is suppose to be connected to 6 on the
RJ45 plug.
Otherwise you won't here very much!!
73 de Guy ZL2VBV |
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| Convert
IC-706MK2G from American to European version |
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Author: Vesa,
OH3NWQ
I edited the out-of-band drawing to show
the modification from American version to European
version

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| ICOM 706
Mk2G IF filter change |
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Author: Charlie
Mazoch Jr.
This mod is for installing a International
Radio #110 crystal filter | | |