Locate Microprocessor on Control Head.

___________________________________________________
|                                                 |
|                                                 |
|      O  O  O  O  O  O   _________               |
|      1  2  3  4  5  6   |       |               |
|         X  X  X         |  MP   |               |
|       (X=Closed)        |_______|               |
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Remove the Jumper on JP1001 (#1)

Solder Pads JP1002 (#2) & JP1003 (#3)

(Pads Closed after Modification #2 #3 #4)

Close Case & Reset Processor by Holding the Mhz Rev Low D/MR keys while Powering up.

Remember it is Illegal to transmit out of band. This Modification is for Informational purposes ONLY.
Doing such modifications on your radio may void any warranty and damage your equipment.

From: Rick - V31RS

I struggled from the instructions found on your mod listing trying to find the 6 pads on the Yaesu FT-1500. After taking the unit completely apart and seeing it from a different perspective, I found the pads. They are hidden by a resistor (not shown in drawing submitted). Therefore, to help others not repeat my visual limitation, I have taken a photo to better explain the pad's location.
I have reduced the size of the photo to better accommodate its downloading size should you choose to publish it.

The one item that is not mentioned is the resistor. It is connected to the pad whose bridge requires removal. It is possible that the newer units have this resistor as a post engineering addition. Someone more technically inclined than I should probably address this situation and I would be very interesting in their finding - advice, i.e. should the resistor be removed and if not, which side of the pad should it be attached?

From: Jeff

One side of each of the pairs of solder pads is connected to ground. (You can, in fact, see this in the photograph --- the lower pads are directly connected the the PC board's ground plane.) The resistor (which, by the markings, appears to have a value one ohm --- more of a jumper, really) just uses JP1 as a convenient place to make a connection to ground. You can safely move the end of the resistor from JP1 to JP2.

Note: The mod disables the "automatic repeater shift" (ARS) feature of the transceiver.

Best Regards,
Jeff

PLEASE NOTE - This modification is carried out at your own risk and may void the manufacturer's warranty! I can't be held liable for any loss of warranty or damage to your radio as a result of the modification.

You will need a .01uF ceramic capacitor to carry out the mod, the instructions for which are as follows:

1. Remove all three screws from the back of the microphone, and lift the back cover away from the front.
   
    
2. Locate the white plastic connector which attaches the microphone cable to the circuit board. There are six wires leading from the microphone cable to this connector.
   
    
3. Locate the 'audio out' wire - this is the second wire in from the right-hand side of the connector (on my microphone it was the white wire).
   
    
4. Using wire cutters, snip the audio out wire approximately half way along its exposed length. Be careful not to inadvertently cut any of the other wires!
   
    
5. Carefully removed 1/8" insulation from both free ends of the audio out wire, then tin them.
   
    
6. Take a .01uF ceramic capacitor (usually marked "103") and snip the legs to around 1/4" in length, then tin them.
   
    
7. Now solder one leg of the capacitor to one free end of the audio out wire, and the other leg of the capacitor to the remaining end; ie. place the capacitor in *series* with the audio out wire.
   
    
8. Ensure the legs of the capacitor are not touching each other. Then, fold a piece of electrician's tape around the capacitor and the wire connections so that they can't short to the circuit board.
9. Replace the back cover of the microphone (ensuring that the PTT bar is located correctly) and all three screws.

You should now find that the transmitted audio is crisp and clear. Enjoy!

73    Mike, M0CQG